Matt Jillson and I ticked off a classic this past weekend: Outer Space. I'd been to the Snow Creek Wall two Springs ago with Gilbert. At the time I really wanted to climb OS, but he'd already been on it and wanted to do Orbit instead. Orbit is rated easier at 5.8+, but people say that it is harder than the 5.9 Outer Space. Orbit was really fun, but I still needed to get back and do OS. It was worth it. I do think that it was maybe a teeny bit easier than Orbit, but quite a bit more fun. We couldn't wipe the grins off our faces on the last 2 pitches - pure joy!
We did the Remorse Route start, which is more direct. It is 5.8, three pitches, as opposed to the standard Outer Space start which is a 5.5 gully, followed by a long 4th class traverse to Two Tree Ledge.
Jillson leads the 2nd pitch of Remorse, a delicate 5.8 traverse.
Outer Space has two 5.9 pitches. The famous crux pitch is the first one off Two Tree Ledge, the 4th pitch of our route. It is a 5.9 traverse with good gear but a lotta air beneath you! I gave Jillson the traverse, which would give me the 5.9 finger crack on the 7th pitch. It was a good trade, as I felt more comfortable than Matt with the crack climbing, and he is the man of steel when it comes to nerves.
Matt heads up delicate 5.8 cracks on the 4th pitch leading up to the crux traverse:
Matt gets gear in on the crux traverse:
After the traverse, it was just jolly good fun climbing. We both were grinning from ear to ear, hootin' and hollerin' with glee. I took the 5th pitch, which was 5.easy knobs and chicken heads, followed by a fun 5.8 dihedral. At this point the party in front of us let us pass, which was a blessing. When we were hiking out, we saw them just finishing the last pitch! The 6th and 7th pitches are where the money is at. It is one long continuous, unbroken 5.8 hand crack with ample knobs for feet and hands if you're not comfortable crack climbing. The one exception to this theme was the short 5.9 finger crack section on pitch 7 that I led. I would climb this section over and over again, if only it wasn't so much work to get there!
Jillson giggling his way up pitch 6:
Money:
I rerack and get ready to lead the 5.9 finger crack on pitch 7:
Jillson clearly enjoying himself on pitch 7:
Top of pitch 7:
Summit shot!
What a stellar route! It deserves its classic status, no question. I think it's gonna be a while before I'm back on the Snow Creek Wall, because the next route to do is Hyperspace at 5.11. Someday.
For those who wanna see more, here's the full selection of pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/106759734752897358987/OuterSpace#
