Gilbert and I headed out last Saturday to take a crack at Orbit on the Snow Creek Wall. The weather called for 20% chance of showers. But since we had bailed 2 weeks prior with a similar forecast and subsequently heard from everyone in the Icicle that the weather was fine, we decided to go for it anyway. We made the right call. The weather was fine!
We left the Snow Creek TH around 9am and made quick work of the approach. Gilbert hates log crossings, so he opted to cross Snow Creek "au cheval."
We decided to split up the pitches such that I'd take the 5.8+ offwidth pitch, and Gil would take a swing at the 5.9 finger cracks. So Gilbert led off on the first pitch around 10:30 am. The first pitch is mostly 4th class, with a mid-5th class finish to a tree belay. The second pitch is the awkward 5.8+ chimney pitch. I took 2 lead falls here. It didn't look too frightening, but as I made my way up it, I came to realize that the key holds were wet. And it doesn't really climb like a chimney. More like face climbing with a coincidental rock flake behind you. The first time I fell I was clipped only to a large but old piton, and went for a 20-30 foot ride, and lost quite a bit of skin from my left hand. I quickly regrouped and gave it another go, this time after I placed an orange alien above the piton. After several attempts, I fell again. The third time it went. As I pulled onto the ledge above, I clipped the webbing anchor and brought Gilbert up. He then informed me that the pitch wasn't over yet.
I then reracked and proceeded to lead most of the 3rd pitch as well. It starts off following a 5.6 ramp that was fun, then makes a long traverse left under a big roof. I passed several anchors along the way, going on beta that I could make an anchor just below the 5.9 finger cracks, so that way I could watch Gil lead that section. Well, I didn't like the pro below the 5.9 section, so I continued climbers left past an awkward bush to the low 5th-class bypass, where a little alcove with slings provided a nice belay. When Gilbert arrived, we considered our options. He couldn't figure out a good way to backtrack to do the 5.9 pitch either, so we ended up continuing on. He led up the bypass to the end of pitch 3.
Here's looking down at the finger cracks:
I took pitch 4, which was the funnest pitch for me. This pitch also goes at 5.8, and is mostly face climbing, crossing an arete and surmounting a few small roofs. Here's the first face section:
Gilbert took pitch 5, which was a sustained 5.6 dihedral with great pro, followed by a tricky 5.8 section at the end with a thin step-around move around an arete onto the face.
The rest of the climb is pretty mellow after that. But by no means boring. The terrain gets crazy! And the setting is superb. Let the knob-slingin' begin. Pitch 6 is easy and short, and brings you up to a really large and comfy ledge.
Gilbert led the 7th pitch, which is a long low 5th-class romp through a sea of knobs to another big ledge.
We left the Snow Creek TH around 9am and made quick work of the approach. Gilbert hates log crossings, so he opted to cross Snow Creek "au cheval."
We decided to split up the pitches such that I'd take the 5.8+ offwidth pitch, and Gil would take a swing at the 5.9 finger cracks. So Gilbert led off on the first pitch around 10:30 am. The first pitch is mostly 4th class, with a mid-5th class finish to a tree belay. The second pitch is the awkward 5.8+ chimney pitch. I took 2 lead falls here. It didn't look too frightening, but as I made my way up it, I came to realize that the key holds were wet. And it doesn't really climb like a chimney. More like face climbing with a coincidental rock flake behind you. The first time I fell I was clipped only to a large but old piton, and went for a 20-30 foot ride, and lost quite a bit of skin from my left hand. I quickly regrouped and gave it another go, this time after I placed an orange alien above the piton. After several attempts, I fell again. The third time it went. As I pulled onto the ledge above, I clipped the webbing anchor and brought Gilbert up. He then informed me that the pitch wasn't over yet.
I then reracked and proceeded to lead most of the 3rd pitch as well. It starts off following a 5.6 ramp that was fun, then makes a long traverse left under a big roof. I passed several anchors along the way, going on beta that I could make an anchor just below the 5.9 finger cracks, so that way I could watch Gil lead that section. Well, I didn't like the pro below the 5.9 section, so I continued climbers left past an awkward bush to the low 5th-class bypass, where a little alcove with slings provided a nice belay. When Gilbert arrived, we considered our options. He couldn't figure out a good way to backtrack to do the 5.9 pitch either, so we ended up continuing on. He led up the bypass to the end of pitch 3.
Here's looking down at the finger cracks:
I took pitch 4, which was the funnest pitch for me. This pitch also goes at 5.8, and is mostly face climbing, crossing an arete and surmounting a few small roofs. Here's the first face section:
Gilbert comes over the mini-roofs.
I built a hanging belay off an old manky bolt and two cams.
Gilbert took pitch 5, which was a sustained 5.6 dihedral with great pro, followed by a tricky 5.8 section at the end with a thin step-around move around an arete onto the face.
I've just done the 5.8 step-around.
The rest of the climb is pretty mellow after that. But by no means boring. The terrain gets crazy! And the setting is superb. Let the knob-slingin' begin. Pitch 6 is easy and short, and brings you up to a really large and comfy ledge.
Gilbert led the 7th pitch, which is a long low 5th-class romp through a sea of knobs to another big ledge.
Knob-slingin'
I finished off the 8th pitch. This one starts with a short chimney, which supposedly goes at 5.7, but we both found it pretty easy. Then it's mostly scrambling, followed by another short hard step through a dihedral. Then you round the corner to the left, and it's one last short face of knobs to the tree anchors and the top-out.
From whence we came.
We had company up top. This dude was so salt-deprived, he really wanted to lick some pee.
It was a great day and an awesome climb. They say it's harder and more sustained than the more classic Outer Space. I obviously can't compare. But the rock and setting are of such high quality that I think I'm gonna have to do some further research for myself. Too bad I'm currently lacking a rope gun to do the exposed 5.9 traverse pitch for me! Hmm...
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