Concord Tower - North Face

So I just finished General Surgery residency!  Five years of hell are over.  And it is now "The Summer of Josh". For those of you who don't know, that is a little nod to Seinfeld.  What that means for me is two months of climbing, camping, fishing, traveling, sleeping in, reading, and just doing what I want.  My whole plan all along was to party hard the day I finished (which I did), spend the next day recovering, then head out on a big blowout climb.  The plan was Liberty Ridge on Rainier. That happened, but not according to my original timeline. Weather and partners fizzled, but I had a short window to climb some rock.  I decided to try to turn this into the annual alpine rock trip with my brother Tyson.  He likes short approaches and moderate climbing. Every year that has led us to Washington Pass, and this year was no exception.  I gave him two options: Southeast Buttress of Cutthroat Peak - short approach, but 11 pitches of climbing up to 5.8, vs. the Northwest Face of Kangaroo Temple - longer approach, 6 pitches up to 5.7.  To our dismay as we arrived at Washington Pass, both had issues.  There was still a lot of snow up high.  So much that the route on Cutthroat could have snow on the route, and the approach to Kangaroo would certainly take longer.  I had Selected Climbs in the car, and after a short deliberation, we changed course and opted for a Liberty Bell/Concord combo. We would start with Concord since we'd both done Liberty Bell before.

Lots of snow on Cutthroat

We made quick work of the approach, despite the fact that I was doing it in bald approach shoes and lacking an ice axe. There was a group of three Canadians doing the Beckey Route, which only affirmed our decision to start with Concord.  The North Face is a fun little route, which departs from the same notch. The climb is only 2.5 pitches, which goes at 5.6. It is a sweet little combo with Liberty Bell, giving the climber two alpine summits easily doable in a day with only one approach and 7 pitches of climbing.

Liberty Bell, Concord, and Lexington Towers from the approach

Tyson nears the top of the approach gully

The climbing was fun and mellow, although a bit wandery.  The rock was solid, but most of the holds were downsloping.  The first two pitches go at 5.6, and there are nice big belay ledges.

Tyson follows the second pitch

Apparently, the topout pitch goes straight up an improbable crack.  It is relatively short, probably 20 feet, but steep to overhanging.  And a fall might result in a deck.  So I looked for an alternate route.  I found that poking around left, I came to an exposed arete that led to the summit.  There was no protection, but this section was shorter, probably 15 feet.  I decided to punch it out.  I'm much more comfortable with hard face climbing than overhanging cracks, so there it is.  It went, but it was probable 5.7 to 5.8.

Tyson reaches hard for the topout on the final crux arete.  The hairpin is far below.

We enjoyed the summit ambience.  The thing I love about the Liberty Group is their close proximity to one another.  We were able to watch the three Canucks go a completely wrong way on the Beckey Route.  I offered beta, but they didn't want it.  I think they made it up okay.

Tyson enjoys the small summit, with Lexington, NEWS, and SEWS behind

Me on the summit

Tyson on the summit with Liberty Bell

On the summit I started to prepare mentally for rapelling the route, having lunch at the notch, and starting up the Beckey Route.  But it was not to be.  Tyson informed me that he was spent, and wanted to head back to the car.  I was not that crushed, since Liberty Bell would have been a repeat.  It meant an easier day than usual in the alpine, since we'd likely be back to the cars by early afternoon and back home in Seattle long before dark.  That didn't sound too bad.  On the way back home we stopped at Good Food in Marblemount.  I don't know why I ever go to that place.  I'm not going back.  It's run by the trashiest white trash family I've ever seen.  The dirty kids just play in the "dining room" the whole time and annoy people and get yelled at constantly by their parents who don't pay any attention to them.  And the burgers suck, although the fries and shakes are fine.  It must be that I'm usually ravenous when I get there, which was not the case today.  From now on, I'm going elsewhere.