Colfax Peak, Cosley-Houston

It has been a while since I've posted a trip report.  Only because it's been a while since I've done anything worthwhile.  Life continues to get busier.  Recently, Eric and I managed to nail a sometimes-elusive Winter route, the Cosley-Houston on Colfax Peak.  Colfax is a sub-peak of Mt. Baker, but makes the Bulger list because of its relative prominence at 9355 ft.  The route is a typical difficult Winter route, and in good condition is rated at AI4, grade III.  We found it harder than that, with one pitch overhanging, AI5.

Typical spur-of-the-moment plans were hatched after we considered significantly tamer options.  Vague second-hand reports suggested that the route was in.  We hit the road on a Monday off and were on the trail by 6:30 am.  The road was open to the Heliotrope TH.  I brought new Microspikes for the approach, which were very helpful on the iced-up trail.  We didn't hit snow until we were at the moraine.  We roped up there, and navigated the fairly-solid Coleman Glacier, making it to the base of the route around 10:30.

First good view of Colfax right of Baker

 Colfax has two technical routes, and the descent route is a steep snow scramble from the Coleman saddle.  The harder route has apparently only seen one prior ascent - the Polish Route, WI5+.  It was tempting, but hadn't quite connected between steep flows.

The Polish Route WI5+ is the central flow

 We geared up at the bergschrund after deciding the the Cosley-Houston looked in, and definitely not a gimmie.

The Cosley-Houston is the right gully system

Eric scopes the crux WI4 (WI5) pitch

 I decided to lead us up the lower section.  I found thin, but fun, protectable WI3 climbing.  Just short of the steep pillar, I started to worry about rope length.  So I built an anchor on the one final curtain before the snow ramp leading to the crux pitch.  Eric took us the rest of the way there.

Josh on P1

Josh nearing the top of P1

Eric at the base of the crux

Eric led the crux pitch in style.  It was steep!  Overhanging WI5 for 40 feet or so.  Gear and sticks were good.

Eric looking solid on P3, WI5

 The crux for me was due to the fact that at the top of the steep pillar, the route degenerated to a thin layer of neve over loose sugar snow.  There was no potential for a rock anchor.  Eric took a long time to build an anchor consisting of two dead-manned ice tools, and himself as a "meat anchor".  That made me extremely nervous to fall following the overhanging pillar.  That combined with this being my first ice climb of the season, I proceeded to follow half of it cleanly before aiding the rest on screws so that I wouldn't have to test the anchor at all.  I was exhausted when I got to him, but thankfully we were both safe.  We burned a lot of time combined on that pitch.

At this point another party of three had reached the base of the route and started up.  I led the snow ramp to the next short steep curtain.  It was WI3+ to WI4.  I had planned on leading it, but I was gassed after my aiding scenario and panic on the last pitch.  So I gave it to Eric.  I should have led it.  It was really fun stemming.  No pics.  Above that, it was more snow for a few hundred feet to reach the top.  It was protectable with pins.

Upper snow slopes

We topped out on the route around 3:30.  Not blazing fast, but considering our shenanigans on P3, not bad.  Sweet summit!  And elusive.

Eric on top of the route

Josh approaches the true summit of Colfax

Eric climbs the final ridge to the summit

Heading down the downclimb to the saddle, overlooking the Easton Glacier

Cool perspective on Baker

Descent route on the right

If I were to climb the route again, I'd bring at least one picket each.  With pickets, the leader could have built reliable anchors above the crux pitch.  Reading past trip reports, others have struggled with the same issue, even with decent snow conditions.  It was the first time that I was more scared to follow a pitch of climbing than lead it.   Eye opening.  Overall, it is an extremely high-quality route.  Plenty of steep ice - we pitched it into 6 pitches in total, with a little simul-climbing.  As we descended the Coleman Glacier, the sun set.  We gave the party of three one last holler to cheer them on.  They had just finished the crux pitch, and would definitely be climbing in the dark or spending an unplanned night on the route.  I hope they made it safe.  We made it off the glacier to the moraine just as complete darkness fell, and made the long trudge down the icy trail by headlamp.